What is Wrong With Well of Pump Continues to Run

Water Pump Won't Stop Running
Diagnose & Repair well pumps that don't turn off or can't reach cutoff pressure

• POST a QUESTION or COMMENT about how to fix a well pump that won't stop running: causes & cures

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Why won't our water pump turn off?

Several problems can cause a water pump to keep running instead of shutting off when it should, and each of these suggests its own diagnostic step to finding out what's happening with your well pump.

This article explains how to diagnose & repair a bore hole or well water water pump that keeps on running and won't shut off. While the repair may be a simple adjustment to the pressure control switch, we warn that there are other causes of continuous pump running that are more serious such as a plumbing leak or a failing well. We warn that the pump may be damaged if the cause is not fixed promptly.

Here is our Table of Diagnostic Steps for a Well Pump that Won't Shut Off. We include wate rpump manufaturer contact information for most borehole or well pump brands.

We also provide an ARTICLE INDEX for this topic, or you can try the page top or bottom SEARCH BOX as a quick way to find information you need.

Table of Diagnostic Steps for a Well Pump that Won't Shut Off

The photograph at page top shows a one-line jet pump, the water pressure tank, and a water softener.

We know from the fact that this is a single line jet well pump that the well is a shallow one, probably less than 27' deep. Well depth may have implications for water quantity and quality and vulnerability to surface water contamination.

[Click to enlarge any image]

Watch out: the first thing to do to protect your pump from damage if it simply won't turn off is to shut off electrical power to the pump.

If the building has no water pressure, turn off the water pump immediately.

How to diagnose a water pump that won't shut off - the well pump keeps on running. Step through the diagnostic points in the table below.

What to Check if the Well Pump Will Not Stop Running
Pump Won't Stop Cause	Diagnostic Procedure	Repair Procedure
Water running in the building If water is running somewhere in the building water supply system (don't forget outside garden hoses and lawn sprinklers) at a rate faster than the pump can deliver from the well, the pump will run continuously.	Turn off the main water supply to the building, typically found at the water pressure tank. If the pump continues to run the problem is not likely to be a running fixture or pipe leak downstream (in the building) from this point. If you have turned off water at the water pressure tank and the well pump is still running, before blaming the pump, controls, piping, well, look once more for water supply piping that may be ahead of the valve where you turned off water.	Turn off or repair running toilets, outdoor garden hose hook-ups or lawn sprinklers, or supply piping that is leaking. If this was the problem source, the well pump will continue to run until pressure builds up to the pressure control switch cut-out level and the pump should stop. If the pump runs on, check the remaining diagnostic steps below.
Lost prime at the well pump If the above-ground (jet pump) pump has lost prime the pump may be running "dry" continuously.	A bad check valve or failed foot valve can lead to loss of well prime. A leaky foot valve in the well or a hidden running water source in the building such as a running toilet can also cause this symptom. If the pump is a submersible unit in the well, loss of prime is not normally an issue.	Watch out: turn off the pump immediately to avoid damage. If no water is being delivered and the pump is running and it's an above ground pump, turn off power and inspect the pump cavity for the presence of water by removing the priming plug. See WELL PUMP PRIMING PROCEDURE for two methods that almost always work to get a dry well pump going again. Make sure that you have adequately primed the pump and do not let a well pump run dry - you are likely to damage it. If the problem is recurrent see WELL PIPING CHECK VALVES WELL PIPING FOOT VALVES WELL PIPING LEAK DIAGNOSIS WELL PIPING TAIL PIECE See PUMP PRIME, REPEATED LOSS of for a discussion of well piping foot valves and the relation to loss of well pump prime.
Water pressure control switch setting errors Improper switch adjustment can cause too-rapid pump cycling	If you or someone else has tried "adjusting" the cut-in or cut-out settings of the pressure control switch, it may be set improperly. Setting the cut-out pressure above the pump's capacity can cause the pump to run continuously.	Check / change pressure switch pressure settings to correct adjustment for cut-in and cut-out. Normally we see about 20 psi between cut-in and cut-out pressures. Lower the pump cut-out pressure setting. If the pump stops, this was the problem. See: PUMP PRESSURE CONTROL ADJUSTMENT This is more likely if someone has been fooling around with the switch. Watch out: a damaged, jammed, or improperly-set pressure control switch that is calling for a pressure that is above the pump's capacity will cause the pump to run continuously and is likely to burn-up the pump motor.
Water pressure switch tubing clogged Clogged pressure sensor or switch pressure sensing tubing can cause improper switch performance.	If the switch is not responding consistently to changes in building water pressure, the pressure-sensing component of the switch or the tubing connecting it may be defective. Try removing the tubing and blowing air through it.	Check pressure switch tubing for leaks or clogging. Clean or replace the tubing. The clog could also be debris in the orifice on the bottom of the pressure switch sensor, or inside the sensor requiring that the switch be replaced. See: PUMP PRESSURE CONTROL ADJUSTMENT PUMP PRESSURE CONTROL REPAIR PUMP PRESSURE CONTROL REPLACE See also WATER PUMP PRESSURE CONTROL - home
Water pressure switch contact points burned/welded	Arcing may have burned the pressure control switch contacts. In some cases the contacts may become "welded" together in the closed (power on) position. Turn off electrical power (for safety) and examine the contact points. If they are stuck together and burned, this may be the problem.	You will need to replace the switch. See PUMP PRESSURE CONTROL REPLACE
Water pressure switch or pump electrical wiring incorrectly-installed	A reader reported that their well pump had been wired incorrectly when it was installed, such that the pump ran continuously. This dangerous error is more likely to occur with a submersible pump whose noise is not going to be heard. The reader noticed that building water pressure was sometimes dangerously high, around 100 psi! A burst pipe or water tank can both flood the building and injure anyone who is nearby. The effects of an always-on switch also include pump damage and failure, exhausting the water well and of course an elevated electric bill.	Ask your licensed electrician to review the pump circuit wiring and control wiring. Also check for a pressure control switch whose contact points have welded shut as that, too, will keep the pump running.
Well piping leak A bad leak anywhere in the well piping between the building water pressure tank and the bottom of the well can leak enough water when the pump is running that the pump cannot raise pressure in the pressure tank up to the cut-out level and the well pump will continue running.	A leak anywhere on the well piping, including on the suction line of a 2-line jet pump, will also cause the pump to run-on or to lose the ability to pump to higher pressures. A suction leak anywhere above the water level in the well will often also add air to the building's water system. A common location for a suction leak is where the well piping (1 line jet pump) or suction line (2 line jet pump) is connected to the pump's impeller assembly. Suction line leaks that are below the water level in the well won't draw air into the piping system but may still leak water back into the well when the pump has stopped. Close the main building water supply valve between the pressure tank and the rest of the building. Also air coming out of building plumbing fixtures can be caused by air leaks into the same well piping when the pump is not running.	Turn off the well pump electrical power. Watch the water pressure gauge. If pressure continues to drop there may be a leak in well piping. If the gauge does not move, tap it to be sure the gauge is not itself stuck. Leaks in well piping will usually require pulling the piping in the well and if no leak is observed there, it may be necessary to excavate along the path of the well line between well and building. This includes "hidden" leaks such as a leak in the piping inside the well or between the well and the building. If such a leak is present you may observe that water pressure in the system drops when the pump is turned off even though no water is running in the building. Start excavation by looking for wet spots on the ground that could be caused by a well piping leak. See WELL PIPING LEAK DIAGNOSIS Also AIR DISCHARGE at FAUCETS, FIXTURES
Loss of water in the well	The well water level may have dropped and the pump is unable to pick up and deliver water in sufficient volume This is possible if the well piping has a low-water tailpiece installed to protect a submersible pump from burnup. If water level in the well drops too low, the tailpiece causes water to re circulate through the pump rather than being sent up the piping to the building served by the well. If the well water level has fallen too low or the well recovery rate is too poor, or if the well pump is oversized for the well flow rate, the pump may run continuously. Other symptoms of this problem include air discharge at plumbing fixtures.	First: turn off the pump and leave it off for 2-24 hours to see if allowing the well to recover fixes the trouble. Then: Install a properly-sized well pump matched to the well flow rate. Install a tailpiece and/or low water cutoff device to protect the pump from damage. Investigate and fix the cause of a poor flow rate or low-yield well. See WELL FLOW RATE SAFE YIELD for a WELL WELL LIFE EXPECTANCY WATER PRESSURE LOSS DIAGNOSIS & REPAIR WATER QUANTITY IMPROVEMENT WELL PIPING TAIL PIECE See these articles: WELL FLOW RATE and also WELL FLOW RATE - YIELD IMPROVEMENT METHODS How to Get More Water From a Well without drilling a new well, and see WELL LIFE EXPECTANCY how long should a water well and its components last?
A failing well piping low water cutoff control or well tailpiece	The low water cutoff or tailpiece are devices intended to protect the well pump from damage by a low-flow or poor recovery rate well. The device may have failed or one may be absent & needed.	See WELL PIPING TAIL PIECE if your well has a tailpiece in the well. See WATER PUMP PROTECTION SWITCH if your pump controls include a pump protector.
Low voltage in the electrical supply	Some pumps will continue to pump but with less power (in gpm or lift) if the supply voltage falls below the pump's design level. More rarely, we've had a report of a 240V pump that continued to run on 120V when power had been lost on one leg of the circuit - a condition that I [DF] found doubtful.	VOLTS MEASUREMENT METHODS
Plugged ejector assembly, tailpiece,or foot valve or well screen in the well	Debris clogging the screen at the water pickup in the well can reduce the water flow rate. To diagnose and correct this problem, it is necessary to pull the well piping and inspect the ejector, tailpiece, foot valve or well screen for clogging	Clean or replace the clogged parts. See   WELL PIPING CHECK VALVES   WELL PIPING FOOT VALVES   WELL PIPING LEAK DIAGNOSIS   WELL PIPING TAIL PIECE
Water pump is damaged Damaged or clogged impeller	The water pump may have suffered internal damage to a seal, bearing, or impeller. The motor will keep running but the pump is unable to develop normal pressures. "Damage" may include a broken impeller blade, scale or debris clogging the impeller or other pump components, or a failing pump seal or bearing.	A bad internal well pump seal will almost always cause a reduced ability of the pump to reach cut-off pressure as well as reducing the pump's flow or production rate in gallons or liters per minute. Check the rubber O-ring or gasket seal between the pump's diffuser and the pump case (volute). See LIFE EXPECTANCY of WATER PUMPS - Well Pumps: How long should a water pump last? What affects pump life?
The wrong sized-jet may be installed	In the well where a 2-line jet pump is installed, the jet is improperly sized or not matched to the pump.	Review the jet pump's installation manual, capacity. If the 2-line jet pump was replaced but the foot valve and jet in the well were matched to an older pump of different capacity, you may need to change the jet in the well. See FOOT VALVES See WATER PUMP CAPACITIES TYPES RATES GPM
Well pump pressure capacity is inadequate A well pump that cannot pump water pressure up to the pressure control-switch cut-off point.	If you are confident that none of the explanations above diagnose a well pump that runs on, Check that the pressure gauge is itself accurate - that's how we make sure that the pressure control switch is not set above pump capacity. Having eliminated all of the explanations above, we suspect the pump may have become internally damaged and it will need repair or replacement.	Turn off electrical power to the well system, remove system water pressure (save water for pump re-priming if necessary). Remove and inspect the well pump and pump motor for proper operation. Check the pump impeller assembly for mechanical damage, broken internal parts, or mineral deposits or debris clogging that reduce water flow through the pump. Replace the impeller assembly and other pump parts as needed or replace the entire pump assembly. See WATER PUMP CAPACITIES TYPES RATES GPM WELL PUMP TYPES & LIFE EXPECTANCY WELL PUMP PRIMING GUIDE
Well pump lift capacity is exceeded	Compare pump lift capacity to the actual water lift height. Note the actual total water lift height from point of pick-up in the well to highest point in the well piping to which the pump must lift water. See the lift capacity for your pump in the pump's data specifications or data tag or installation manual.	See WATER PUMP CAPACITIES TYPES RATES GPM

Notes to the table above

Some of the well pump troubleshooting suggestions in this list can be found at the Betta-Flo Jet Pump Installation Manual from the National Pump Co.

• BETTA-FLO JET PUMP INSTALLATION MANUAL,[PDF] National Pump Company, 7706 North 71st Ave., Glendale, AZ 85303, Tel: (800) 966-5240 Email: info@natlpump.com, website: http://www.nationalpumpcompany.com, retrieved anew 9/13/12, original source: http://www.nationalpumpcompany.com/pdf/Betta_Flo_IOM_Jet_Pump.pdf

Reader Q&A - also see the FAQs series linked-to below

Water Pump Won't Stop Running - what to do

Question: my pump cannot reach the cut-out pressure setting - my pump runs all the time

I have replaced the Pressure swtch and I can not acheive cutout, pump continues to run. Switch is adjusted very low for cutout. The units cuts in about 26-28 psi. but exceeds the desired 50 -60 psi cutout. - BK 6/6/11

I had to put a new pressure switch on, the pump was running all the time and it burn the points up. The new one is letting the pump run all the time too, when the pump is running the water pressure keeps going up and down, until there is a small amount of water coming out.

I'll turn the pump off and back on then the pressure will come back up and if it runs about a couple of minutes it will do the same thing again. I have no leaks, could this be the water tank?
I need help - Ed 6/18/12

My pump does not exceed 32psi and constantly runs then fails to cut back on even though pressure drops below 20psi. Only way to start it is to manually connect the flow switch to engage the pump. - Jack Nelson 7/7/12

(Nov 26, 2014) Evelio said:
water pump in the tank keep and pressure wont go over 40psi theres anething i can do

(Jan 26, 2015) Anonymous said:
pump does not shut off

Reply: first check the pressure control switch CUT-OUT or CUT OFF pressure setting

BK: Well pump won't stop running: try setting your pressure control to turn on at 20 psi and off at 40 psi. That should be achievable by most well pumps unless the pump itself is damaged. Once you have the pump operating normally in that pressure range you can try increasing the cut out, or both cut-in and cut-out gradually

Don't operate the pump too close to the highest cut-out pressure that it can attain, since there is the risk that when you're not watching the system may, through wear or other factors, leave the pump running until it burns up.

Jack, if the pump does not start at pressures below the cut- in point of 20 psi, the switch may be bad. But the pump running continuously and never delivering cutoff pressure is something else - such as lost well water flow rate or a well piping leak or someone has left a faucet open in the home.

Evelio, check for a well running out of water or a worn or damaged pump impeller or low voltage to the pump motor.

@Charles mizell,

If the pump was having no trouble reaching the shut-off pressure before, I suspect that there's a leak in your well piping connections

Changed a foot valve on shallow well , cause foot valve was leaking thru ! Put new one on , now pump won't build up pass 20 lbs !!??? Need suggestions??

Thank you so much I will let you no

@Anonymous, or Tony

The fact that the switch cuts off if you hit it makes me think that perhaps there is a loose electrical connection OR that the tube or pipe bringing water pressure to the pump control switch pressure sensor may itself be debris clogged.

Our most-complete list of diagnostic suggestions for exactly the problem you describe are above on this page. Please step through them to see if one of those fixes your pump trouble, and do let us know what happens.

I have replaced my holding tank and my pump and the points and put a new check valve on but my pump continues to run constantly unless I taken hit the points with a screwdriver and then it sucks the water up really fast until it cuts off when it is running it holds pressure around 40 but will not shut off

@Brian,

Are you sure the check valve is facing the right direction? If so then I'd go ahead and step through the diagnostic causes of a pump that won 't stop running - given above on this page. Keep me posted.

SWJP. With new 30-50 pressure switch. Installed check valve before pump. Now pump won't build pressure beyond 44 lbs won't shut off. It reached 50 before I installed check valve

@Albert Perry,

My first worry is that your "good used pump" may not be so good. The pump might run fine, and may seem to be properly primed, but if its impeller is damaged or clogged it won't move water.

As you replaced the foot valve you must have pulled the entire pair of 2-line jet pump pipes from the well, right?

Were there any additional check valves that might be jammed shut?

Are we sure that your new foot valve is not stuck?

Is the well piping bottom venturi intact or might it have been blocked by sediment or debris?

Perhaps test the pump disconnected from the well to be sure it's moving water.

The pump froze and busted installed a good used pump replaced foot valve the water will stay on top of lines that go into well and when you prime pump the water stays full where it's primed but it does not pump any water it sounds like it's pumping but it's not

I'm running above ground jet pump with 2 lines going to well the well is 115 foot deep have not had any problem for about 8 years thanks for your advice

@Barbara Jean CHASE,

Most likely the cause will be one of those listed in the article above. Please take a look and let us know how that works for you.

bought a bran new water pump and it will pump up 55pounds but won't shut off why

@TERESA,

The diagnostic steps or things to check for the case you describe are given above on this page, so I hope you'll look through all of those.

A very common cause of what you describe is a debris-clogged pressure control switch.

Our deep well water pump wont shut off. we replaced the pressure switch. it runs and has lots of pressure but the pump will not shut off until we shut off the breaker.

When we turn the breaker back on the pump is fine until we run water for about 5 mins, after that the pump comes on but wont shut off after about 15 mins we turn the breaker off.

Turn it back on. then everything is fine until the pressure goes down, then the cycles starts again.

@Ahmed Badawy,

Yes, Continue reading at WATER PUMP PROTECTION SWITCH https://inspectapedia.com/plumbing/Pump_Protection_Switches.php

as a way to protect the pump from damage; the switch can turn off the pump as needed. Some of these will wait, then turn the pump on again; others will wait for you to re-set the switch.

Usually what we do is install a rooftop water tank, pump water up to the tank and from there deliver it down into the building.

Sir,

I've my water pump for 6th floors building , since my main water pipe pressure usually can not deliver water there.

In summer most of the time the water in such main pipe becomes very less and when i turned on the pump to get water , it can not achieve the cut-off pressure and the pressure switch will not respond to stop the pump.

is there any automatic solution which I can use in stead of switch of electrical to my water pump , i'm afraid of forgetting to do so and my pump keep running , high temp then total loss

@Sajeev,

When I read that someone has a 600g water tank I figure the flow rate of their well is very very poor and they're trying to accumulate water into the larger storage tank to get a functional building water supply (or yours is a commercial or industrial installation?) - so I already suspect an inadequate well.

It's possible that your pump is trying to pump water but the well is virtually dry. A dry well combined with a pump protection switch will shut down the pump.

Watch the water pressure gauge: is it below the pressure control switch CUT-OUT pressure (typically 40 or 50 psi)?

Sir,
Had a 600 gallon tank and a smart head pentax 3/4 HP pump installed two weeks ago.

For the past five days two problems: pump starts every 7 - 8 minutes and then shuts off in 10 seconds. This is happening even when no water is being used in the house.

Second problem is that water in the tap comes out in spurts and then slowly. No leaks detected in the house. Please advise. Thank you very much.

@Teri,

If water into the house is turned off,

and the water tank is not waterlogged,

and it's air precharge is 2 PSI below the pressure control cut in pressure,

I suspect water isn't entering the tank.

Could be a bladder stuck to itself.

Sometimes a brief deliberately over-pressure will un-stick the bladder, but

Watch out: don't get even close to the tanks maximum rated pressure or it could burst, injuring or even killing anyone nearby.

6 year old shallow well 3/4 hp jet pump. A week ago it just started running non stop. Powered it off replaced the pressure switch and it still just kept running.

So pull the well pipe and replace the foot valve its at this point I realize it's not shutting off because not getting to the cut off pressure 20/40 switch. Now I check the pressure tank and all is good staying at 18psi. So must be the pump right.

Go pick up a new pump hook everything up and new pump is short cycling like every 10 seconds. So unhook take that one back, pick up a zoeller, hook that up and it runs for about 10 seconds and trips. What is going on please help

@RIZWAN,

Let's start by asking you to review the "pump won't stop running" diagnostic steps given above on this page, since among your symptoms you mention that your water pump does not turn off "automatically".

(I cannot know, from so little information in your note, but I suspect that your water pressure tank's starting air pre-charge pressure is not being set correctly)

i have to empty my 30 liter pressure tank and then refill it twice a week. if i do not do so pump does not switch off automatically. a good amount of water is being produced by the water pump and switch is working fine . i could not locate any leakage at the tank.

Pump does not starts automatically, it starts when needed but does not switch off automatically. Then if i empty pressure tank and refill it it starts working fine for next 3-4 days. how to locate issue?

@Randy from Saskatchewan,

Thank you for the nice note, Randy. We've worked hard on this site for decades so I am really grateful when a reader finds our information both useful and trust-worthy. It's not that I might not make a mistake but at least it won't be for the purpose of making a buck.

Some notes:

The pressure tank won't itself cause the pump to fail to shut off (unless it's got an incredible leak);

There are more-detailed explanations of things to check in the article above but I'll add that when you've stopped running water and the pump takes forever to shut-off but finally does, I suspect

- a pressure switch that is not responding quickly to pressure change because it's debris-clogged (you're checking that)

- a clogged foot valve or inlet (you checked this and rule it out)

- a pump that's got a worn or debris-clogged impeller

- a constriction in well pipiong

- a leak in well piping

- an un-discovered leak or water use in the building (running toilets, leak in crawl space, etc)

Do keep us posted - that may help other readers.

I searched about a reason for why my pump might be running for a long time after water use and one of the first things I see is "InspectAPedia tolerates no conflicts of interest. We have no relationship with advertisers, products, or services discussed at this website." I love it.

Good for you. I had already checked the air pressure in my pressure tank bladder and know that our sandpoint isn't clogged and has lots of water but I never even considered a faulty or clogged pressure switch.

Tomorrow I'm going to take a look at that. I'll report back on my results for anyone that might be interested.

@tuur duncker,

Let's start by checking for a debris-clogged pressure control and/or pressure gauge; that can cause a delay in reading the true pressure reading in the system.

cant find an answer anywhereso you my last resort..my pressure goes up to6 or 7 bar without pump kicking in..

it starts at a normal 3.5 bar and then slowly creeps up to 6bar without pump kicking in..turn water on and it drops again and pump kicks in to keep pressure..

its a straight forward set up..water from mains flows in watertank .pipe from watertank to pump with non return valve in between ..after pump straight in to house.

any ideas?

Question: pump won't stop running and got very hot - my well pump won't turn off

Pump has worked fine until today for some reason it kept running after the 'timer' stopped. I didn't notice for a while and by the time I got to the pump, it was really hot. I killed the power and water/steam shot out of a PVC pipe on the bottom. If I plug it in, it won't stop running.

I turned the timer on and tried to send water to a sprinkler zone to no avail. Please help! - pumpwontstop 6/17/11

I have been having a problem with my well for a couple years now with it staying running. I hired a well guy and he told me it was a 30 year old system and it needed to be replaced, so i started to replace things and it has fixed some problems, but has cause others.

We replaced the air tank, pressure control switch, the run capacitor, and the start cylinder.

When we turn it on after about 4 hours it will run for 5 to 10 min, but if we let it sit off for 8 hours or even 10 hours it will run for 15 to 20 min. I have no clue what is going on and seeing if someone could help.

Also as I was down at the well, and it was turned on their was some sloshing in the system as it starts and turns off. If you need any more details just ask. - Mike 7/25/12

Reply:

If your well pump won't stop running and it is delivering water then I suspect that the pump is unable to reach the cut-off pressure.

That can happen for a variety of reasons like loss of water in the well, a well piping leak, water running somewhere that you didn't realize, a pressure switch set too high, or a damaged pressure sensor component of the pressure control switch.

see WATER PUMP WONT STOP RUNNING for a thorough diagnostic procedure

Ed:

If the pump runs all the time even when you turn OFF water from the pressure tank into the building, then since you've excluded the control itself:

- the pressure sensing port on the pressure switch may not be seeing actual water pressure if the small diameter tube or pipe feeding pressure to the switch is clogged

- you may have a leak in well piping in the well or in the ground between house and well.

- you may have a damaged pump impeller that is not developing enough pressure to reach switch cutoff

- or something else

Hi Mike. It sounds as if perhaps you are losing well prime back down into the well - could be a bad foot valve - or a leak in the well piping.

Is the pump in the well or above ground? If above ground, is it a one line or two line jet pump?

Followup from Mike:

the pump is in the well about 600 ft down how do i find a leak that far down or where is the foot valve in the pump? thank you for answering me fast

Reply:

Mike, first establish that there is a leak, and in what segment of the whole system it exists - say in the building vs between the water pressure tank and the bottom of the well.

If it appears that the leak is in the well piping, that's in the well itself (as opposed to between well and building) you're in luck because you can pull the whole well piping and pump (use a professional to do this) to find and repair the leak as well as replace the foot valve.

If the leak is between house and well then unfortunately excavation is in order.

If the leak in the well pipe is in the well and is between the water surface and well top, you'll hear or even see water squirting out of the leak when the pump is running; if it's under-water you may never see it without pulling the line.

All of this means that you start by determining that the leak is between house and well.

Search InspectApedia for

"find leak in well piping" to find our diagnostic article

Question: my pump would not stop running - the tech says I need a new drilled well

My pump began running non stop and when the well person came out they said they were able to set psi to 38 and the pump would shut off correctly however most likely the jet is plugged or a hole in casing for it to change suddenly and It will eventually just quit.

Does this sound correct. It is now functioning fine at 38 psi but I am concerned since winter is coming and I shoul get a well drilled now. I am not planning in investing in repair if it needs repair because it's an old 2" - Amanda 8/26/12

Reply:

Amanda I don't understand the question you are asking. A hole in a well casing may admit dirt and contaminants and might speed up clogging of the well screen on a foot valve or pump pickup; But some more accurate diagnosis is needed before drilling a new well.

@Richard Boyce,

The most complete list of possible causes is of course in the article above but from your description if you are confident that there are no leaks in the water piping and if you're confident that you're well has not run out of water then you could have a bad pump impeller or low voltage to the pump

Above ground jet pump. Put new parts down hole. Pressure tank is holding 28psi. Water is circulating but won't pressure up. I have clear hoses so that I could know for sure if pump was circulating water. Shut it off and it hold the water doesn't drain out.

there is no air in line

Omos

Noise from the motor itself? Probably a failing motor or bearing;

Though if there is air in the piping that too will make the pump noisier.

So if you're getting a water-air mix at faucets it could be low water in the well or air in piping; else it's probably a failing bearing.

My water pressure pump makes big noise when I open the tapes what is the problem

What is the problem when pressere pump makes big noise when i open the tap

...

Continue reading at WATER PUMP PROTECTION SWITCH or select a topic from the closely-related articles below, or see the complete ARTICLE INDEX.

Or see WATER PUMP WON'T STOP RUNNING FAQs first set of questions & answers about what to do if the pump won't turn off

Or see these

Recommended Articles

• WATER PRESSURE LOSS DIAGNOSIS & REPAIR
• WATER PRESSURE PROBLEM DIAGNOSIS TABLE - diagnostic Table 1: Pump Won't Run, Wont' Stop Running, or Cycles Rapidly
• WATER PUMP CAPACITIES TYPES RATES GPM - is your pump capable of reaching cutoff pressure and water lift requirements?
• WATER PUMP DIAGNOSTIC TABLE a concise guide to diagnosing and fixing water pumps
• WATER PRESSURE CONTROL SWITCH ADJUSTMENTS - set the pump cut-in/cut-out pressure correctly
• WATER PUMP PROTECTION SWITCH to shut off a pump to prevent burn-up
• WATER PUMP REPAIR GUIDE - home
• WATER PUMP SHORT CYCLING CAUSES - why does the water pump keep shutting on and off so quickly?
• WATER PUMP WON'T START for ten things to check
• WATER PUMP WONT STOP RUNNING - what to check

Suggested citation for this web page

WATER PUMP WONT STOP RUNNING at InspectApedia.com - online encyclopedia of building & environmental inspection, testing, diagnosis, repair, & problem prevention advice.

Or see this

INDEX to RELATED ARTICLES: ARTICLE INDEX to WATER SUPPLY, PUMPS TANKS WELLS

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